I was wondering what the best way is of etching the grooves into the standard Thompson grips? I was considering either hand filing or using the dremel cutting tool. Anyone got any tips?
Birdie@cwcom.net

I would use the Dremel at highest speed possible. But you must choose/use the right bit for the job. May be make practice runs on similar pastic fully marked out and use some sort of straight edge for guiding the cuts. That's what I would do Bird ...
"We few, we happy few, we band of brothers...For he today that sheds his blood with me
shall be my brother."Edited by: [url=http://pub217.ezboard.com/bthealienslegacy.showUserPublicProfile?gid=menatarms>MENATARMS[/url] at: 9/17/03 8:12 am

The problem with cutting the grooves with a dremel is that you need to try and keep all their depths consistent. There aren't any bits for the dremel that come to mind that will allow you to do this unless you set up a system that accurately controls the cutting depths. It's also a matter of keeping the dremel steady enough that the lines look clean. If you had dremel's drill press attachment, you could simply turn the dremel with a cutting disc 90 degrees relative to the drill press, set it to the right height, and run the grip through. Another suggestion would be to use a wood/metal block that raises the shaft of the drill bit to the right height so just enough of the cutting disc would be able to etch the grip and then use the block as a guide as you cut across the grip. The latter of these two options would probably more viable. I'd prefer to go with a metal block/guide rather than a wood one. Although the shaft of the bit isn't supposed to remove material is does create enough friction to do so, and a metal guide would lessen that.

You also mentioned using a file. This isn't a bad idea either. It would probably afford you more control than the dremel and with the right needle file you could probably etch the lines quite easily.

The most important thing to remember is don't rush yourself, and test the different techniques on some scrap before doing it.

Good luck.

-Alex
"The M41-A. When you absolutely, positively have to kill every mofo in the room. Accept no substitutes."

Isn't there a router kit made by Dremel ?? If so, that'll be the tool to get for this job.
"We few, we happy few, we band of brothers...For he today that sheds his blood with me
shall be my brother."

But the router is 100% controlled by your hands and you'll have to eyeball it, making perfectly straight lines near impossible.

Although the router bit is hand controlled, it does have a metal piece that you can move in and out to set distance from the edge. I used it when routing the vanes on my A-wing pilot chest box, and I would definately recommend that you clamp the object down and practice on scrap. Though it should work fine for something as small as a grip (might have to stick a board at the base of the grip to keep the router edger straight).

[img]http://www.highlandcitadel.com/DSRR/Images/recroom_banner.jpg[/img]

I inspected my TM Thompson grip, and I find it a wee bit dangerous to try and dremmel it out. I think that the walls are too thin. So the other option was to get some thin strip of plastic and "build the grooves". Glue the strips down with perhaps a 1/8th inch gap, and then go back and shape the edges with some sandpaper for a positive (grip) feel. Of course, prime and paint to proper specs.

I was thinking of molding the grips, but it's not worth it to make one mold for just to make one grip. It's also a little technical to make a two piece mold so that the grip can be hollow for the motor. I may have to ask them, Hi-Impact guys......hmmmm.

my 2 credits.

--Evans



ADDITION: Forgot to mention that the Black & Decker rotorary tool (IMHO is beter than the Dremel brand) has a adjustable collar - comes with some of their kit purchases. I bought mine at Wal-Mart.

I think it's designed to be used with a cutting bit. For example to cut holes in drywall and the like, but I sure that it can be adaped to use a round bit. That addressed the uniform depth issue.
Edited by: [url=http://pub217.ezboard.com/bthealienslegacy.showUserPublicProfile?gid=earthangel34>EarthAngel34[/url]  at: 10/5/03 7:47 am

There was someone here a long while back that used thin sheets of styrene cut to the appropriate width and then glued on his airsoft Thompson grip. After it was all attached and painted you'd never know it wasn't cut directly into the grip.

Rook

Visit Rook's Castle, I dare you! What's a matter McFly? Chicken?

Is this what you ae looking to do? If so, I will put together a pictorial and post it in the next couple of days.

[img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-2/110823/AGrip.jpg"%20style="height:500;width:372;[/img][/url]
Russell aka Rogue
<img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-6/110823/U.S.C.M.Logo2.jpg" width=319 height=67>
DEATH is CERTAIN.....LIFE is NOT!
SO, JUST DO IT!

Yep, Russ (and Russ!) that's what I'm aiming for. I haven't started yet, so any further help will be greatly appreciated!

Simon

If you want to form the grip to look like mine, you will have to use a dremel tool and work your as$ off to get it formed right. Don't forget to sand the bottom to get the flat effect there. Good luck.

1. Tools you will need. Ruler, preferably a metal one. A scratch all, and a modelers round file with point.



2. This is the grip, unlined and unaltered.



3. Backside measurement from top, 3/8th inch. Make a mark here with the scratch all.

[img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-2/110823/07Measure3_8ths.jpg"%20style="height:340;width:500;[/img][/url]

4. Front side measurement from top, 5/8th inch. Make another mark here with the scratch all.

[img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-2/110823/08Measure5_8ths.jpg"%20style="height:340;width:500;[/img][/url]

5. Scratch a line across from mark to mark. You decide how long.

[img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-2/110823/09Scratchline.jpg"%20style="height:340;width:500;[/img][/url]

6. Make sure to take your time. If you rush you will screw up, trust me. Mark it several times, make the scratch deep. It will help when using the file.

[img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-2/110823/10Sctatchlinedeep.jpg"%20style="height:340;width:500;[/img][/url]

7. Mark next line 1/2 inch down. Spaces between the lines are 1/2 inch for each line.

[img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-2/110823/111_2inbetween.jpg"%20style="height:340;width:500;[/img][/url]

8. Repeat above for all lines.

[img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-2/110823/12nextline1_2in.jpg"%20style="height:340;width:500;[/img][/url]

9. Start to file each line with the sharp tip of the file first.

[img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-2/110823/13Roundpointfile1st.jpg"%20style="height:340;width:500;[/img][/url]

10. Again, take your time so not to screw it up.

[img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-2/110823/14Dontrush.jpg"%20style="height:340;width:500;[/img][/url]

11. Use side of file now, make the grooves as deep as you nee. Make sure to not file to deep, or you will go thru the other side.

[img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-2/110823/15udecidehowdeep.jpg"%20style="height:340;width:500;[/img][/url]

12. Finished grip, ready for paint, or even keep wood grain. It looks good as is.




Hope this helps...



Russell aka Rogue 1 SG
<img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-6/110823/U.S.C.M.Logo2.jpg" width=319 height=67>
DEATH is CERTAIN.....LIFE is NOT!
SO, JUST DO IT!

Okay, here it is. Finished.

1. Photo of the grip sanded and ready for paint.

[img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-2/110823/17Finalsanded.jpg"%20style="height:500;width:325;[/img][/url]

2. Here is the final product. Textured and painted.


Russell aka Rogue 1 SG
<img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-6/110823/U.S.C.M.Logo2.jpg" width=319 height=67>
DEATH is CERTAIN.....LIFE is NOT!
SO, JUST DO IT!

On the PR.

[img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-2/110823/19onthePR1.jpg"%20style="height:340;width:500;[/img][/url]

[img]http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-2/110823/20OnthePR2.jpg"%20style="height:340;width:500;[/img][/url]
Russell aka Rogue 1 SG
<img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-6/110823/U.S.C.M.Logo2.jpg" width=319 height=67>
DEATH is CERTAIN.....LIFE is NOT!
SO, JUST DO IT!

Thanks Russell for the tutorial.

Glad to help. If anyone does this, please post your results. I would like to know if I have been able to help anyone get the results they were looking for.
Russell aka Rogue 1 SG
<img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-6/110823/U.S.C.M.Logo2.jpg" width=319 height=67>
DEATH is CERTAIN.....LIFE is NOT!
SO, JUST DO IT!

Russel,
that's a great tutorial and a nice job done on those grips (as though they were done on a milling machine)!

I just want to add a little tidbit:
If you want to go for total accuracy you also need to modify the back of the grip - the upper radius on the back of the pulse rifle grips is larger than on the original Thompson grips.
See: wwwhni.upb.de/~otto/Aliens/PR/PistolGrip.pdf
Note: This file represents the 10-hole version grip with it's seven grooves; the 8-hole version has only six but is otherwise identical!

I'm not sure however if this modification will be possible on an airsoft PR because of the space required by the motor. So be careful when trying it.

Cheers,
Stefan

Edited by: [url=http://pub217.ezboard.com/bthealienslegacy.showUserPublicProfile?gid=bugstomper>Bug Stomper[/url] at: 10/8/03 7:10 am

Stefan,

Great work. I hope you don't mind, but I saved it to my reference file. I will have to use it when I build my 10 hole PR. Simular to SD's but with mods. Modifing the upper radius on the Mauri grip could ba a bit tricky due to the thin plastic in that area, but it can be done to a point. I will give it a try on my next M1A1 conversion to M41A. Thanks again,


Russell aka Rogue 1 SG
<img src="http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-6/110823/U.S.C.M.Logo2.jpg" width=319 height=67>
DEATH is CERTAIN.....LIFE is NOT!
SO, JUST DO IT!

Glad you like it!
Luckily, I did't had to worry about the material thickness on my PR-grip as it's based on a real steel Thompson. However, there's a chance, that the airsoft version will be available here in some time and then I'll have to cope with it too.

Cheers,
Stefan

PS: To me it's perfectly ok if you (or anyone else) save this file (or any others I posted) for personal reference - after all, that's what this board is about

Excellent work, everyone!
Birdie@cwcom.net